catFood

Next stop on the burger patrol was the Prime BurgerHouse at the Grand Victoria Casino. I had high expectations but feared it might be overhyped. The best burgers are where you least expect them and a place that is all burgers all the time can't be under the radar. But that doesn't mean they can't be good.

Thumbnail imageThe décor is neo-modern retro if there is such a thing; a lot of chrome and lights, small tables, cute waitresses and a very clean appearance. Salt and peppers shakers were a hoot (I am amused by small, shiny objects).

Menu is busy and tries really hard to be slick but still hip and way different. There are a lot of combos like burger with lobster, Kobe beef with shredded bacon, buffalo meat and bizarre combos of wild mushrooms, avocado and other things that are interesting but in my working class world, does not belong on a hamburger. That's just me. I have no class or sense of adventure when it comes to the sacred hamburger. What I found at the very end of the menu was the option to build my own using whatever ingredients I wanted. I should have read the menu closer because I would have done just that.

I had Kobe beef with shredded bacon, cheddar, lettuce and tomatoes on a marble bun. Beef was good and flavorful but Kobe is a higher grade of beef and therefore moderately lean, which means a little dry; not fatally dry, not as lean as ostrich (just 3 percent fat) but still lean. The fact that it is such high quality is like casting pearls before swine in my case. Fries were outstanding, not limp, cold or greasy, but crisp, hot and cut just right; not too thin to be like potato chips and not steak fries that are never done right.

The verdict: The beef was smoky, rich and plentiful. It is a little messy to eat but no one was wearing a tuxedo so it didn't matter. Presentation was classy, condiments plentiful. Fries are in abundance, hot and crispy.

Downside: The shredded bacon overwhelmed the burger and made it a little hard to chew as shredded bacon is not the consistency of ground beef. Also, the bun is not strong enough to stand up to the robust nature of this slab of beef and readily crumbled. Try it on an onion roll instead. Also, shakes are not up to snuff.

Overall: High class burgers with a lot of variety in a clean, modern setting. Not a quick spot after work, but a more of a destination burger if there is such a thing. Worth a try, if for nothing else than the unusual combinations. Price is not forbidding and actually quite reasonable for the atmosphere, quality and décor.

I rate the décor and atmosphere highly and give the place a 6+ on the Pepe's scale.
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